into-the-wild-blue-yonder

Wednesday, July 09, 2008

Getting to Beijing

So last year at some point, I believe it was just after watching the world swimming championships in March, I decided that I really wanted to go to the Olympics in Beijing. Well off and on the thought went through my head and I'd look at what I needed to do.
the first thing I wanted to do was buy tickets to events. Well i went on the the official Beijing website to look up details. i found the dates that tickets went on-sale, and so I wrote them in my calendar. Well when I went on the website to purchase tickets, I found out that the first round was only for chinese mainlanders. I thought this was a little odd, but succeeded none the less and waited until the next round. Well when it finally came to the next round, I logged onto the same website and found the same thing. The tickets were only available to Chinese mainlanders. This time I was a little more confused and quite angry. So I decided to find a canadian page that could tell me more information. What they told me was not what I wanted to hear.
It said that tickets for the first round had already been sent out. As I read on further, I realized that I should have come to this Canadian webiste when i first wanted tickets. Tickets had been allotted to specific organizations in each country. The webiste I had been to was only for chinese mainlanders. So basically I was shot out of luck for any good tickets I may have wanted. So I was pretty bitter, but I figured I could just buy scalped tickets, which is what I"ll have to do.
I had also been talking to a few people at work that were thinking about going to the Olympics. They ended up changing their plans. So it came down to me travelling to the olympics in Beijing by myslef without a ticket. This got me a little down and a little confused as to whether I should go. I knew there would be people I would meet, but it's always great to know someone will travel with you. Anyway, I kept looking on the internet, reading and deliberating whether to go or not. But every time I talked to someone I would say I was going.
then it happened, I was talkkng with a group of people and Rico asked if I wanted a partner. I said yes. There it was. That was the push that got the big ball rolling.
So now the ball was rollin. But there was a big hang up for me. I had one page left in my passport. I needed two pages for my chinese visa, and my vietnam visa expires a couple days after I will re-enter the country, which is not really acceptable to Vietnam. However they will have to deal with the last part. I had to deal with the first part. And of course an earlier experience I had made it even more difficult.
You see, in order to get a canadian passport, you need your old passport, birth certificate, two pieces of i.d. and a guarantor
I of course had managed to lose my birth certificate since I came back to vietnam (I believe it got put in the wash because my maid and I failed to search my pockets).
SO... I had to apply for a new birth certificate and have it shipped here before I could even apply for a new passport, before I could even apply for a chinese visa. man alive.
So I sorted the birth cert and my mom sent it here for $60. brutal. Then i went and got my passport sorted and had to pay extra because I didn't have a guarantor (someone who has known me here for 2 years) so I had to include references. But I didn't know anyones phone number and address except for Adam. So I had to guess at Tommy G's address b/c I knew his number. Well they called Adam which was fine, but they couldn't get a hold of Tommy, and his parents were super confused at some random asian girl asking for his cell phone number, so they didn't talk to him. They called me twice and I gave them Camille's number and luckilythat worked out. So now my passport is on its way. Rico and I bought plane tickets, but before we can apply for our chinese visa we need to book a hotel and buy a train ticket out. man alive. it's a battle. let's hope it works out
bye.

Saturday, July 05, 2008

very so long time since

Indeed it has been a very long time since I have written a blog. And the only reason I am now writing a blog is due to one Christopher Dundon. You see, chris was searching for Alibaba's phone number online (the awesome Indian restaurant in Vung Tau) and my blog came up. He read it and was telling me last night that he enjoyed it, and that it had been a long time since I wrote. I knew.
However, it is often difficult to find things to write about when you're just living. I mean, every day life really isn't that interesting... or is it?
Things that have happened recently: I saw, for the first time, a man driving a motorbike, holding onto a big piece of glass BY HIM SELF. Usually there is another person on the back holding on to the glass, but he was doing it himself. Utterly, fantastically dangerous.
I did a triathlon. I had been swimming certain mornings just for fitness and to do something in this lazy town. Kristoff had mentioned a long time ago that he would be doing a triathlon in Mui Ne at the beginning of June, and he told me I should do it too. Of course I laughed because I am in no shape whatsoever, and cannot find ambition in this town to get into shape. However a week prior to the event, talk started around the office and I ended up signing up along with a fellow Canadian, Camilla, and planned to travel up with a group of others. Alec, Fiona and I drove up, while Camilla, Kristoff and Mirjam took a taxi. In preparation for the event I had swam a couple mornings, ran a couple evenings, and not biked for over a year. However the event went quite well. Of course I dominated the swim. It was only 250 m, but I got a long way out front. But when I made the transition to the bike, I didn't even know where to go. So I went somewhere slowly, waiting for the next person to show me the way. Well as I ventured on I realized that the way was clearly marked. I pushed on, realizing that 20km is a long way, but eventually made it back to the beach for the run in 6th or 7th place. The run was on the beach, which was awful, especially because I stepped on a purple sea creature that had spikes in it at the very beginning of the run, and had to limp most of the way. However I did not give up my position, and finished in 7th overall, 6th among men. Of course that was the short triathlon. The long one was won by my friend Kristoff. Camilla came 6th amongst girls I believe. So it was a very successful trip. And it was my first triathlon.
The most interesting part of my life, as well as the most frustrating, is my mission to get into China to see the Beijing Olympics. But that's going to have to be another day.

Tuesday, January 29, 2008

Long Awaited

So here’s where I stand now. I’m on Tylenol 3's because I just had a third molar (a.k.a. wisdom tooth) pulled, the same one that got infected in Bangkok. So I’m at my parents house, with only a week left in Canada, using dial-up internet, and trying to load all my cd’s onto my new external hard-drive (which is taking way longer than I would like), typing on the world’s loudest keyboard. Serious, I wish I had ear plugs. But I feel great.
As far as I remember my last blog was when I first entered Thailand. That’s ridiculous. I mean, if any one says ‘Hey, I haven’t read your blog for a while’, instead of scolding them like I used to, I get to tell them that it’s a good thing they haven’t looked, or else they would be disappointed.
So now I have the tough task of relaying my entire 3 months of vacation into one blog. Which could end up super long, but most likely will be a mere synopsis of the actual events.

Assuming my last blog was in Koh Chang, my next stop was Bangkok. It turned out that my friend from Carleton U., Jesse Egger, was selling advertising space in the U.K. Times for medical tourism. He also happened to be selling this space to hospitals in South East Asia, and by even more random chance, was selling to hospitals in Thailand, centered in Bangkok, at the exact time that I was passing through. So, I got to hang out in an amazing serviced apartment in downtown Bangkok for a few days. Then my dear and bestest friend Dave McCarthy flew to Bangkok to begin his adventure.
It just so happens that the day he arrived was the full moon. And for those that don’t know, Thailand is famous for it’s full moon parties. So 6 hours after Dave arrived, we headed back to the airport, picked up his previously lost luggage, and along with Jesse and his co-worker Natasha, hopped a sweet twin-prop down to Koh Samui, then a boat to Koh Phangan, then a sawngthaew to our pre-booked hotel (thanks to Natasha) and then down to the beach for an all night party, with thousands of people and ten djs. Needless to say, for those who like partying, go to Thailand for a full moon. It’s a blast.
After the full moon weekend, Jesse and Natasha had to return to work, but Davey and I were free to do whatever we wanted, and we had 50 days to do it. So we took a boat up to the next island up, which was a small place called Koh Tao. Approaching it was awesome. There were coconut trees everywhere. I see coconut trees all the time, but on this island there were a disproportionate amount of them. And as I later found out, this is because coconuts are a major industry on the island.
We made our way to a hotel, but decided to walk the beach to look for something better. Within 20 steps of being on the beach we saw a couple of Scandinavian girls tanning topless, and along with the blue water and green trees, we both felt like we were in paradise. We eventually made it to the end of the beach, and found an amazing bungalow and settled down. We spent that night and the next day wandering around, enjoying the scenery and deciding whether or not we should go scuba-diving. Turns out it is a very cheap place to do the PADI diver course, and I decided to go for it, while Dave would only need a refresher before doing some fun dives.
Result: I am a certified PADI diver, and Dave and I both were able to experience wonderful diving, lots of fish and coral, and excellent instruction. It was quite fun. The only bummer was that when we weren’t diving, it was raining. We always got lucky that it was sunny while we were on the boat or underwater, but once we made it back to land it was often dreary or raining. Just another nasty day in paradise.

After a week of partying with random people on the island, scuba-diving, and re-uniting with our friendship, we decided to head back to Bangkok to hang out with Jesse and Natasha, and see my dear friend Alex who was still in Bangkok. So we took the same boat (a large catamaran) we had taken to Koh Tao, to the mainland at Chumporn. This was an interesting trip. We went up to the sun deck to enjoy the view, same as the previous trip, but within 10 minutes we had been absolutely drenched by the crashing of the boat on the 10 foot swells. But to seek shelter we had to head inside, where the air conditioning was pumping, making me cold and Dave feel sick. So I tried to sleep while Dave went outside to heal.
We were quite happy to reach shore. We grabbed some food and drink to try and soothe our upset stomachs, and waited for our bus to take us the next 8 hours to Bangkok. The buses in Thailand are generally nice. They are quite spacious and have movies playing. However, we somehow managed to get the worst seats on this bus. I mean, we got the seats that were jammed in to make it a round 40 passenger bus. When the girl in front of Dave leaned back, he literally could not move. It was a bearable trip do to a couple movies and Dave’s ipod, and at long last we were in Bangkok. And we headed straight to the pimp palace of Siri Sathorn for the comfort of our friends apartment.
We did a lot of hanging out in Bangkok. Dinner’s, shopping, movies, bars, Pat-Pong and enjoying the tuk-tuk rides through crazy Bangkok traffic, while breathing the terrible Bangkok air. We were spoiled by the luxury or our apartment, and got to see Alex the night before he flew to Myanmar. The only downside of Bangkok was the infection I got in my third molar, and the trip to the doctors office that cost me money and told me that I was going to need surgery, basically as soon as possible (of which I am now recovering from). And after 6 days in the big smoke, we headed up north to Chiang Mai, a major tourist attraction in Thailand, and the second biggest city in the country (250,000 - which is amazing because Bangkok has about 9 million).
Our ride was awesome because we were up top on the bus, at the very front with a big window for our enjoyment. When we got there, Dave right away jumped on the trekking bandwagon. He had a desire to see the countryside, and I had a budget that wouldn’t allow it. So we separated for 3 days. He went hiking and took an elephant ride and a bamboo ride down a river etc. etc., while I stayed in the city and did some writing and exploring. When Dave returned, we only had one more thing to accomplish before we went into Laos: to see a Muay Thay fight. And that we did. We got ourselves there with the help of Dave’s guide, the wonderful Captain Jack Sparrow, and then we got ourselves a bottle, and the good times began. We met a couple other guys there, and Dave won some money betting. We then hit the town with the guys to see what Chiang Mai could offer us. It offered us fun. The next day we chilled out and got a body massage from the blind before taking the night bus to Laos.
The bus was not too bad, but it got us to our destination about 3 hours before we expected. It was 2 am, but we weren’t supposed to arrive until 5. The man offered us beds for 50 Baht ($3) so we took that and slept until noon. A couple people on the trip were quite upset at what happened, and thought they were being taken for a ride. But in the morning it was obvious that we were in the right spot, and everyone had set out on their proper paths.
Thailand Analysis: Thailand is filled with pleasant people and stunning scenery, but compared to the countries around it, has become far to accustomed and jaded to the tourists. Though it offers great tourism, it is expensive for budget traveling, and has nothing that specifically calls to me, other than the islands. However, by no means am I telling you not to go, as I’m sure you will have an excellent time. Hey, it’s the tropics.
When we got into Laos, we had to spend the night in Huoay Xai, (I’ve seen 5 different spellings for this name, who knows??) because buses only left in the morning. So we went to the local Red Cross and had ourselves a sauna. Soooooo refreshing. Nice herbs, and a glass of tea afterwards. We attempted to join the Gibbon Experience (a ropes course throughout the Nam Tha forest reserve), but it was all booked up and the girl wasn’t very friendly.
In the morning we took our mini-bus to Luang Nam Tha in the north, and got to enjoy the beautiful scenery of Laos. We arrived in this seemingly small, slow town, which is one of the biggest towns in the country, and began our Laos adventure. First thing that happens after stepping out of the bus is that we are approached by 3 ladies dressed in traditional dress (I believe Yunnan Chinese dress) selling handmade goods for cheap. These ladies appealed to Dave, and ended up being our friends for the next week as we went back and forth from their home turf.
We had a nice bike ride around the area, checking out a waterfall, a temple, biking through the back woods and coming across a graveyard, then a town, and then a wicked bamboo bridge across a river where the children were either playing in the water, or returning from school. We also stopped by Green Adventures, and booked a two day kayaking trip down the Nam Ha river. We then went to celebrate, and met a couple older gentlemen that were doing a dirt-bike trip around Laos that sounded awesome. Then came the girl from Oregon. Apparently Dave’s Canadian accent and pronunciation of Oregon (O-ra-gone) was not acceptable, and she became upset when we said “Oh, so it’s pronounced Oregon. Like organ donor?”. After that she wasn’t our friend.
Our trip had 6 people on it, and it was awesome. Though it was done in 2-man inflated kayaks, and the rapids were quite poor (i.e. not exciting nor death defying), it was wonderful to coast down the river weaving through dense jungle, and seeing tribes fishing or farming all along the way. We stopped at one of the villages to have a look around, and eventually came to the village where we would spend the night. A group of ladies was waiting for us there with goods and beer to sell. The night was spend under the magic of the Laos sky, by a fire, and ended with all of us asleep on our beds under the bug nets in our one room shack. The pictures and crafts from this village are priceless.
The next day when we arrived at Luang Nam Tha again, we settled in for a quiet evening. Watched a little footy, cried to Lady in the Water, and slept, preparing for our adventure the next day that would take us to Xieng Kok. I had asked my friend Jack where I should go in Laos, and he said to rent a bike and drive to Xieng Kok. So we did. Driving is the way to travel. Having the freedom of a bike, the warmth of the air, and the speed is just wonderful. It beats a bus any day. Though pack light, cause riding with 30 kg or stuff on your back or between your legs is not nearly as fun. But seriously, do bike trips. The first part of the trip was awesome, driving through mountains on a paved road. But from Muang Sing to Xieng Kok, the road was awful, dusty, and long. It took us quite a while to get there, and when we arrived at late afternoon, we were happy to find a beautiful bungalow on a cliff above the Mekong River, looking at Myanmar, for a pidly 5,000 kip per night, or five dollars. We only had power from 6:30 until about 10:30, but that’s all you need, if that. We spent two nights there, experiencing a town where travelers almost never go, restaurants don’t want to cook for you, there are no fruits or vegetables, and it only cost us $30 for the both of us including basically drinking our faces off. A budget of $7.5 per day per person...... absolutely incredible. And then we had to drive back, which obviously was no more pleasant than the drive there, but with no where to be, we could take our time.
Our next destination was Luang Prabang, which meant an eight hour bus ride, which turned into the craziest bus ride in the world. First there was an exploded tire. Then the seat in front of Dave collapsed on him, and Dave and another guy turned it into a lounge seat. Then the seat in front of that had a leg go right through the floor. And after 10 long hours we eventually arrived safe and sound, and found a sweet room in a good location just before a couple other dudes from the bus walked in. It was the last room.
Luang Prabang is beautiful. Situated on the convergence of the Mekong and another river (which escapes my right now), it is the second largest city in the country, is a UNESCO world heritage site, and is very french influenced with loads of french architecture and loads of retired french people spending lots of money. The markets here are also the best markets I have ever seen, with some of the nicest crafts in the area. When we first came across one, it was at night, and the small street was all lit up with lights, and it looked marvelous. The people are wonderful, the crafts are wonderful, and the prices are quite wonderful too.
We spent the evening getting a full body massage with a seaweed wrap, which was nice, but we did it at the end of the night and did not get the best service around. The next day we just walked all day, finding different things to do and see. Mostly temples, and talking to a monk at the mountain pagoda. We also happened to find the children’s cultural centre which was putting on a performance that night. So we returned for the performance. It was awesome. It started with a traditional ceremony of sharing food, and the elders placing string around our wrists for health, good luck etc. Then the band started, and a puppet show began. After the puppet show there were 5 traditional dances. They showed traditional dances or the farmers, of specific tribes, and of how boys and girls of different tribes dance and act when they meet each other. Instead of grinding up against each other in the clubs, they have elaborate dances, set up by the villages, in order to encourage children to date outside the tribe (non of that pesky incest!). It was truly amazing, and lovely to see that they are preserving their traditions among the young generation.
The next morning we made our way to Vang Vieng, of which we had heard plenty about. Here you can go tubing down the river while drinking at several bars and enjoying rope swings and zip lines. And it was all true. Our first evening I decided I wanted to eat street food, which was a mistake that pretty much dictated the rest of our trip. Directly after eating I went to the bank machine and felt a nasty ball of gas inside of me. After releasing it (and running from the ATM), I found Dave in quite the same discomfort. Mine disappeared, but Dave kept getting worse and worse. In the morning we found a place to do rock-climbing, but Dave was a little sick still. He really wanted to climb, so we kept on going with the trip anyway. Well, once we got to the site it became clear that we weren’t climbing. Dave spent about an hour (at least) purging his body. And even if it was fully purged, there was no way he would have energy to climb. And so our climbing dude let us leave, and we had a pleasant boat ride down the river back to base camp. We ended up at a popular beach place (actually the place we had been to the night before, it’s a big party place with fire pits and lots of people. We met Carrie and Ko-dog the night before as well. More on them later) and got ourselves a hut with a couple hammocks. Here we spent the rest of the day. We ordered food and healthy drinks, and had a great time. That evening we met up with Carrie and Ko-dog, and their friend Mitch came along. Mitch and Carrie are fellow Canadians, while Ko-dog is a filthy American, who we can forgive because she is a wonderful person (just like most Americans I know :). As a result of our hanging out, we decided to go tubing the next day. However, we had to go out that night to celebrate. My wonderful, tough friend Dave trudged it out with us for a while, and we had an good night at some seedy bar with a group of Irish people that make my friends look tame. We aimed to get going at 10 am, but of course it took longer, and we eventually made it to the rental place at noon. It took another hour to get going, and we eventually hit the water around 1. Five minutes later we were stopped at the first bar with a couple more people in group. In fact, we had a bunch of Aussies, and a new group of Canadians we had just met at the bar. There were about 25 people that left that bar at one time.
The next bar had a zip line, which gave us plenty of fun, and that’s when the heavy drinking began. At first you don’t know if you’ll drink at all, and then all of a sudden everyone is in a frenzy of fun, with buckets of booze being passed around aplenty. It really is wonderful. The day just spirals from there. Along the way there are more zip lines, a rope swing that starts about 30 feet up, a beach volleyball court, a ta kraw court, a boulles court and loads of people. The only issue is getting the motivation to leave before the sun goes down, because then it gets really cold. We were decent with our departure time, but still spent some time traveling in the dark, and got pretty cold. We did eventually make it, but I don’t recall what happened that night, though I think Ko-dog got a little green.
In the morning we had to get up to wish our party friends a good trip north, as they were heading up, then over to Vietnam, where we would eventually meet up with them for a party night in Saigon. They took off, and we didn’t have anything planned. With Dave still recovering, we didn’t want to take it too hard, but we didn’t want to take it too easy either. So we rented a couple bikes and decided to check out some of the caves in the local limestone karst system. Well the first cave we went to was quite the disappointment. Though naturally wonderful, it was clear that this cave was not preserved, and therefore not as stunning as one might wish. The beauty came as we left the site, in the form of a couple attractive British girls. They were walking their bikes, and we started up conversation. Well, we ended up riding their shitty bikes so that they would be a little more comfortable, and after biking down the road and finding out that it would be fruitless, we turned around. The couple that told us to turned around was wiped out on the road just over the hill, and we found out that, to fit the cliche, she was driving. And he had the cut.
When we finally made it off the terrible dirt road and onto pavement, we just wanted to chill. So we headed back to the same huts we had stayed at on Dave’s sick day, and hung out once again for the afternoon. Well the girls weren’t feeling sick, so they ordered a bucket (in case I haven’t said this already, you order buckets of booze in most of these countries, allowing more people to drink out of them). Well after a few buckets we decided to get some dinner and planned a party for the night. We met up for dinner, and met a bunch of their friends and went out on the town, again. We ended up at the bonfire place, partying and getting thrown out again when the police decided it was time to shut down. Then the mob (probably 100 people) moved together toward the ‘late night’ place called Joe’s, that was so in awe at the mob that it shut it’s gates shortly after we entered, and ended up being shut down shortly after that. With that we retired, once again with plans of going tubing the next day.
This tubing day would be quite different, though fully the same. We knew to start early, and so we did. Unfortunately, that means you start drinking earlier too. We were actually among the first at most of the bars, most notably the big one. And we got a good seat, able to watch the people float in, and be up front for the zip swing. This is where things got close to going out of hand. I’ll spare the details. Once again it was difficult to leave, but the buckets made the time fly, and our first experience forced us to force our group to leave. And everyone was glad, because even though we made it back while the sun was still up, there were a lot of cold bodies. Though we tried to make another big night of partying out of our day, it was kind of impossible. Everyone was pretty tired. The highlight of the night was my lucky roll of six on the die at the bar, which got us a free bucket. Dave and I decided it was time to take off after 6 days of being stuck in Vang Vieng. Everyone says that it’s a wormhole that you just can’t help getting sucked into, and you won’t believe it until you go there. So the next morning we awoke, bought our tickets, and watch some Family Guy to raise or spirits, to make us laugh, and prepare us for the sedation of driving in a bus again.
Of note is how we planned our Laos trip. Mainly... money. There are few ATM’s in the country. And even fewer that are linked to the world bank system, meaning getting cash can be difficult. In fact, Luang Prabang and Vientiane are accepted as the only real places to get money in the whole country. So we planned ahead, myself planning to keep myself on budget, by taking a certain amount in, and I figured that when that ran out, we’d head south to Cambodia. Well that really didn’t’ work. Not that I spent money fast, but we did a trek, and we had a blast. And thankfully Dave had thought more ahead, and brought a bunch of ‘back-up’ cash. Well, it turned out that we could get money in Vang Vieng, at least through a credit card advance, of which we had to do two. But this was all on Dave because I had a debit card that wouldn’t work in the only machine there. Which meant that we were dealing with one wallet, and we did have to budget wisely, because until the last day, we didn’t know the cash advance was available. So we spent three days where we’d wake up in the morning, fill the wallet with however much we could spend that day, and hope for the best. I don’t’ think we ever abided by the budget, because somehow everyday we’d check our leftover cash, and it would be less than we wanted. Buckets.
On our bus to Vientiane was our friend Danny, who had joined our group tubing the previous day. She stuck with us for the day and we got a sweet hotel room for the 3 of us. And right near our hotel room was the national soccer stadium, that just happened to have a game on that evening. And for $3 we got to take in a soccer game, which was a lot of fun. We took it easy because we had all over spent our budgets, and we had also just come from Vang Vieng, which is worth giving the body a rest from. Danny awoke early to catch her flight to Cambodia, and Dave and I slept (as much as Dave could sleep at this point, like 6 hours a night, if that) to let our bodies heal more.
It was unfortunate that we only had one day in Vientiane, however it also made it very nice. We booked an overnight bus all the way down to Pakse, a retro-fitted bus with beds so we could sleep. After eating breakfast we did what we weren’t going to do in Laos, used the internet, and then booked a tuk-tuk to take us to the main sites of Vientiane. The temple was very nice, but almost closing, and we weren’t allowed inside or even up the levels, so it was a relatively short trip. But the arc in Vientiane was next, and was much better. It is a very impressive monument, but who knew that you can go up it?? I didn’t. Sitting on top of Vientiane gives you a warm feeling. Seeing a city from that view is just pleasant, and with it being such a nice city, it was even more rewarding. But alas we had to go for dinner, which we did along the Mekong, and fetch our things to catch the bus.
Though the bus was not superb, it was much better than riding 10 hours overnight in seats, and the trip went quite quickly. And so we arrived in Pakse at 6:30, and made our plans on the fly. You see, we had tentatively planned to take boats all the way down the Mekong from Vientiane. Well no boats were available there, so we took that overnight bus. But we knew that boats went from Pakse to at least Ch_______. Well when we showed up at the agent and asked, they said no way. Well, they said we would have to rent the boat for ourselves, and that would be, like, a lot of money. So, we decided to bite the bullet and take the bus. We could have caught a boat from Si Phan Don across the border, but that would have taken a lot more time, and we decided it was time to change countries. So we crammed ourselves with like 15 others into a small van to take us to the border. It was not a pleasant trip, but the border was interesting (very minimalist) and the ride into Cambodia was better. We also knew that when we got to Stung Treng in Cambodia, we could take a boat down to Kratie. So we arrived in Stung Treng, were the only ones getting off the bus (which was good because the continuing bus was terrible, and terribly tight). Our driver owned a hotel, a nice hotel, and put us up for $5. But when we asked about getting to Kratie by boat, we were once again disappointed to find out that the boat trip has been replaced by the cheap and fast buses on the new roads. (Gasoline wins again, I don’t know why). So we had to book a bus once again. But once we got to Kratie, we had a wonderful time.
Dave and I split ways right off the bus, and both had people selling us hotel rooms. In general, the one Dave would have taken us to was better, because it had a direct view of the Mekong. The one we went to turned out to be quite the adventure too. It had a balcony right over the market, which is an enjoyable spot to be, and the manager was interesting. He was a young man, and we found out that he had just finished school in June or so, and had graduated with the highest average in the ENTIRE COUNTRY OF CAMBODIA. And so had been granted a trip to several countries, including Singapore, and of all places, Canada. Niagara Falls to be exact. Needless to say he was a very nice man, and he treated us well. He knew what we wanted to see, and we wanted to see the famous (and nearly extinct) Irrawaddy river dolphins. This is one of two places in the world where freshwater dolphins exist. So we hopped on motorbikes, Dave on the back of his, and I on the back of his friends, and we made the trip. We had to rent the boat for ourselves (a trend) but this was much cheaper, and very rewarding. Why, because we saw the dolphins. The drivers know their stuff, and we managed to watch them for quite a while. We got several photos and a video. We then chilled on an island and made a couple sand sculptures. But it didn’t stop there. On the way back he asked if we’d like to try palm tree juice, apparently to get drunk off. We said yes. Then when we were there, he asked if we would like to eat snake. We said yes. They were small garter snakes, and they didn’t’ have much meat, but they were pretty tasty. The juice was not my favourite though. It wasn’t terrible, but you had to drink a lot to get drunk, and it wasn’t worth it. That could have been because I was dead tired. We ended up sleeping around 8:30 or 9. Pretty lame I suppose, but we had another bus ride to Siem Reap the next day.
And so we got up early again and hopped the bus. We had to take the long way around, only because there are only 7 highways in Cambodia, and they don’t exactly take the most direct route. So this bus didn’t get us to Siem Reap until 5 or 6 pm. And although I always go to Mommy’s guesthouse, we decided to switch it up, and went to Smiley’s, which was a pleasant surprise (also run by the same family) with a nice room and wonderful atmosphere. We also booked a tuk-tuk for out two days to Angkor Wat, and he was a very nice driver.
And so that’s what we did, Angkor Wat. It’s difficult to describe, and this trip was a little different than my others. Mainly because I had been there twice before. Which isn’t to say I was jaded or uninterested, but I had different ideas in my head. I forgot what it was like to see it for the first time. I think we did very well though. We were still sick, in fact, both of us had puked up our dinner from the night before that morning before we set out. My body was not happy, and I ended up puking up all the water I had drank in the grounds of Angkor Wat. Not one of my proudest moments. So day one went slowly. And we did well because we didn’t push ourselves. It worked out quite well that I had been there before, because Dave could go explore, and I would sit in the lower parts of the building’s and enjoy the cool, damp environment. It was a very relaxed day. The second day was much the same. We took it easy, saw what we wanted to, and took it easy, heading home early so as not to wear ourselves out.
The next day we went to Phnom Penh, planning to have a good night out and then take a boat into Vietnam. This plan worked out perfectly. We chilled out for the evening, and then went to the Blue Lagoon where Alex and I had had our party time back in October. Because they knew me we had a wonderful welcome, and had a great night. Unfortunately we were broke, so we had to call it early, though I stuck it out a couple hours past Dave, giving me a solid 2 hours sleep before our river trip.
The funny thing about Cambodia is that you can book a river trip, and still ride in a bus for 2 hours. It was utterly horrible. Especially for me. I was in the front seat, and this was one of those vans where the engine was behind the driver. So I was the first thing in the van. We came so close to hitting so many other vehicles, hit so many potholes that the van should have fallen apart, and it was continuous like that for almost 2 hours. Not pleasant. And our boat to the border was kind of boring and shitty, but it just felt wonderful to be on the river, even if we were in the middle of this fast paced, 2 kilometer wide river. At the border I realized a few things: 1. I really do like living in Vietnam and 2. Being able to communicate in a foreign country like Vietnam makes you feel really good.
And so my decision to return to Vietnam after my Christmas holidays was made. And the fun began. I kind of became a tourist guide. It was fun. I ordered food for everyone. I taught them about the monetary system, and I joked with the ladies running the restaurant. It was nice. The rest of the boat ride was much better. The boat moved slow, the tributaries were small, and it went right through rural Vietnam. And it had a deck on the back where we sat in a couple chairs and enjoyed the sun.
When we arrived in __________, I realized how big of a group we had. Most of the people on the boat were young people, and we all got a long, and decided to stay together. We just had to make a decision as to where to stay. So eventually I told everyone to get on the cyclos (these ones where bicycles with carts behind them, not the standard pedicabs), and they took us to a hotel that was suitable. And finally after discussing prices and sorting out who would stay where, we were settled. We also booked our tickets to HCM City for the next day. Then we walked around a little, ate a little. I introduced a couple of our new friends to sugar cane juice, and tried to teach them a little Vietnamese. But once again, with bus trips looming, we hit bed early.
Our dear friend Nina, the beautiful German girl, took off at like 5:30 in the morning, while we departed at 7:30. When we arrived, they clearly didn’t know what to expect, because there was little room for our bags, and they had to kick a lady out of the bus so that we would fit. We also picked up a boy along the way who had to sit on Dave’s bag in the ‘aisle’, that is after jumping on it to fit it in. Basically the driver was a jackass, and ended up charging us extra to get us where we wanted to go once we got to the city, but after all was said and done we were at a hotel. And do you remember what I said was going to happen when we arrived in Saigon (it was the reason we made such a hasty return)...... Right.. We partied with the Canadians we had met in Laos. Ironically I saw Ko-dog and Carrie walking down the street on my back from booking my plane ticket. Pretty random, and pretty perfect. So we planned a meeting time, and Dave and I did our errands. Which consisted of getting tailor-made suits. The first shop we went to was nice but didn’t have a good fabric selection, so we went to the store that had bolts and bolts of fabric. And we picked beautiful suits, each to be made for the day we left. With that set, we went to chill before we had a night out in Saigon.
The night started at Go 2 Bar. Which is a standard tourist bar, and a good place to get messed up. And after a few hours there, we made it to Volcano. Volcano is a club where you go to have a good time, and you can never worry about cash. Unfortunately, travelers almost always have to worry about cash. We had also met up with a couple Canadian guys who weren’t worried about cash. And everything was good (except that Ko-dog and Carrie hadn’t stood up, or even really touched their drinks all night, and Dave was pretty reserved too) until the two guys ordered the second bottle. I suppose they didn’t realize how early clubs close in Saigon, but it was quite unnecessary. And it also made our bill very expensive. And with Carrie and Ko-Dog not drinking, and Mitch having only 300,000, and Dave not really drinking, it sort of split up between 3 people, one being me. The two guys paid for most of the second bottle as they were going to come back and drink it, but it still cost all three of us quite a bit. I have begun to understand why Vietnamese don’t divide the bill up. We were the last people in the club because we kept recounting and asking people to pitch in little by little. It’s much easier for one person to pick up the tab, and then someone else the next time. But that requires seeing the people again, and traveler’s don’t always have that liberty. Well it got sorted, it was a fun night, and it was time for everyone to head to bed, since most people were traveling the next day.
Dave and I were traveling, to Vung Tau that is. I was going home of sorts. And it was refreshing. We rented a bike, visited the ILA crew, and made rounds around the city. We made it to Rudi’s to pick up my bike, which didn’t end up happening because it was dead as a door nail. That’s for when I am back for good. Miraculously, Rudi’s turned into party central, and we had a god crew of people just chillin’ out, enjoying the sunset. We did David’s and the dog track, and then Adam and Dave got hooked on FIFA.
Sunday was another excellent day. We had a badminton tourney, went to the water park, went to beach b\club, and got Dave hooked on VT. It’s always wonderful having visitors because they make me realize how sweet a place Vung Tau is. Though it has it’s intricacies, the beauty of it is remarkable. And to cap off our stay (I was flying the next day) there was an ILA dinner to which we were invited, on top of the Imperial plaza. It’s a really nice looking restaurant, and it was nice to see all those who I worked with. We also had an episode of shakeface, which always ends up with hilarity. Everyone came over to Adam, Alec and Fiona’s pad, and we had a wonderful shindig.
And then it was time to leave. At least once the morning came. We packed up and shipped out. I had to pick up my ticket in HCMC, pick up my suit, and then hit the airport. All went smooth until they said my suit would be ready the next day, not today. Well this was unpleasant to say the least, and my happiness quotient went down, but I won’t go into details other than Dave brought it to me because he didn’t fly for two days, and all was fine.
And that was the end of my South East Asian traveling. Though I have had 5 weeks in Canada, I wont’ divulge the information on those. To say the trip was successful is an understatement, all I can say is that everyone should travel. You learn a lot, and coming out the other side is a whole other feeling in itself. This blog was much longer than I thought it might be, but still quite sparse on details. If anyone still reads the blog, thanks :)

Tuesday, December 04, 2007

The hike, the drinks, the food and the crazy guy

thThe next am we awoke at the Cat Cat guesthouse and took it upon ourselves to hoof it down the little road with the intention of walking around a village called, of all things, Cat Cat. It was a long way down to the bottom of the valley that lay between us and Mt. Fan Xi Pan, the highest peak in Vietnam which I mentioned in the previous post. It was a lovely day weather wise, the temperature much more suitable for walking than it is here in the soggy south. About half an hour later we were at the bottom, our minds full of breath taking views which we'd just passed by. At the bottom there were a few buildings scattered about which made up the village, there was a river running through the valley with small waterfall which we stopped to look at for a while. We poked around and looked at the wares being hawked by the local people and then eventually set off on a path up the side of a small hill which we thought would lead us to the bottom of the road back up to Sapa. Down in the valley there were numerous footpaths like the one we were on. I'm sure at one point these paths were the recipients of only a few footprints, belonging to locals and their herds. These days there are plenty of brand name sneakers, sandals, and boots that leave their mark as well, but on this day after a few minutes of walking, we found ourselves quite alone. From where we were we could see most of the bottom of the valley, including the road and path which we'd descended on, a group of motorbike drivers waiting at the road, which was our destination, and several other paths, upon which were other guests of Sapa, sweating like we were in the late morning sun. Our only concern at this point was whether the path we were on actually led to where the motorbikes were, or whether it lead into the middle of no where, at which point we'd have to turn around and retrace our many steps back to where we came from. We had been able to see the bikes, but the path dipped and swerved into and out of thickets, over knolls and and across berms and after a lengthy spell of hiking we began to question our navigating. Just as the doubt arose in our minds, we popped out of the trees to find the motorbike drivers parked and waiting right in front of us. So we selected two noble looking steeds, hopped on their motorbikes and they buzzed us up the hill.
It was lunch time when we got back to the guesthouse and since it had such a lovely terrace restaurant with a beautiful view, and we all had a hankerin' for cheeseburgers, we decided to chow down there. Twas a great idea, the food was super, and after lunch we walked the 30 paces to our rooms and 75% of us closed our peepers. For some reason 50% of us had peeper problems, Dad had one red eye, I think he'd forgotten to take a contact lens out, Jessie's lower eyelids were swollen, not sure why, so she iced them. The rest of us were fine, I slept and Mom read a book for an hour or two.
Later in the afternoon when we all got going again, we decided that since it was our last night in town, we would show ourselves a good time at a couple local watering holes. So we plodded around the town for a few minutes, spotted our former H'mong friends along the way and eventually happened into a dimly lit joint called Tau Bar, which was down a side street and in the basement of some building. It had diversions such as a pool table and a dart board, the latter being of slightly less than professional standard, I think it was magnetic, but since the pool table was occupied we drank brews and whipped magnetized darts for a while. Later on the pool table cleared up and we played a few games, had a nice encounter with a local nut job, an old guy that came in, danced around the room, didn't say a word, jigged his way over to jessie's beer and promptly poured most of it on the floor and then jigged his way out again with the help of the staff muscle. It was and interesting few moments to say the least, but it gave us a chance to chat with the security guy, who told us A)that guy had head problems and B)his (the security guard's, not the nut job's) daytime job was a tour guide for foreigners. So we talked it over and decided that although it was fun walking around all devil-may-care this morning, we would like to take another tour to some more outlying villages and have the knowledge of a guide to answer some questions we had. It was arranged that this fella, Jhuan was his name, would meet us at our place in the morning, and he'd take us by jeep to two villages a few kilometeres from Sapa, where we could see the lifestyles of a few more minority tribes. Great, it sounded like a good plan, and the price was right too, 15 bucks a person, for the whole day, the jeep, lunch and a trip to some hot springs as well. we continued to play pool and eventually the social nature of the game sparked a meeting between us and a Scottish dude named Ian, who was in town for a few days, doing basically the same stuff we were. The five of us played for a while and shortly thereafter an english girl joined our group. Her name was Heather, she was 19 and she was zipping around northern Vietnam on a motorbike, by herself, for a couple weeks. This story was pretty overwhelming for Mom, as it would be for all moms I'm sure, but it made for some laughter as she told us how she couldn't kick start her bike herself so she always had to find someone to do it for her, and how she wasn't tall enough to sit on it and touch the ground so when she stopped she always tipped over. Despite these 'shortcomings' she was in good shape and seemed to be having a great time.
By that time the sun had been down for a while and the beers were starting to fuel a strong hunger in our collective stomach. We decided to make our way to the Indian restaurant in town and Ian and Heather joined us. Now by this point in the trip we'd yet to top the 1 million dong mark on any of our dinner bills, but that night, with our best effort, which included two bottles of wine at 21 dollars a piece, we managed to topple the mark. One million dong, sixty dollars, yee ha! At dinner Heather regailed us with more anecdotes of follies and foibles which she'd survived during her trip and we scarfed curry and wine til we were sufficiently bloated. After dinner Ian and Heather went back to the bar, but we turned in for the night, as we were going to be up early for our tour. That night the temperature was b-e-a-utiful, cool enough to make the thick duvets on our beds a neccessity and I personally, slept like a baby.

Friday, November 02, 2007

The First Day of Elevation

At just about 6 am our train pulled into the station at Lao Cai, a town on the Chinese border and also the end of the line. We gathered our luggage and alighted. As we walked along the platform with all the other passengers we weren't 100% sure who our ride to Sapa was. When we booked the train tickets in Cat Ba our friend Tuyen had mentioned having a friend there that could take us to our hotel, but it was only really mentioned in passing and we didn't, or at least I didn't think that we'd run into this guy by chance. So, it was great when I came upon a man holding a sign with my name on it and the name Cat Cat hotel below it. I remembered that a month or so ago, when I'd booked the rooms they'd told me that they would pick us up from the train...terrific. We walked a few more steps and, oh jeez, there's another sign with my name on it, only this time the space below read - Tuyen Cat Ba Island - oops. So, after a rushed decision we ended up going with the hotel guy, not sure why, maybe because he found us first, but who knows. Either way there was no trouble finding a ride to Sapa. After a few moments while the drivers packed the minibus to the roof, we set off toward Sapa. The drive was incredible, just like you'd see in a movie. We wound along mountainsides and squeezed by oncoming traffic. Below us lay great valleys carved with rice paddies and we climbed up and up. If there's one thing that can be said about the drive to Sapa, it's that you sure don't feel like you're in Vietnam, aside from the inescapable honking I suppose.
We came rumbling into the town at around 8 am and poked through the crowded narrow streets in our bus on the way to our guesthouse. We passed through the majority of the little downtown before encountering a minor traffic jam just outside of our hotel. By now were were 1500 m up, it doesn't sound like a lot, but it was impressive nonetheless. After nosing through a few other vehicles we came to a halt across the tiny street from the Cat Cat guesthouse. Looking right we saw the little street leading to the downtown area and to the left the road plunged into a valley and disappeared, your attention demanded by Mt. Fan Xi Pan, the loftiest mountain in Vietnam, peaking at 3143 m. The second highest mountain, or at least it seemed that way, was directly in front of us. Mt Cat Cat guesthouse consisted of a grueling 130 steps from reception to rooms and wasn't the most inviting sight at 8 am after a lengthy stint aboard public transport vehicles. Well, we did manage to summon the energy to make the summit and it was well worth it. On the top levelof the guesthouse was a nice terrace restaurant, large balcony areas off of the rooms and a view more breathtaking than we could've hoped for.
Now, one thing that's a bit of a shame about Sapa is that it's quite westernized, well known and full of tourists, and backpackers. As a result, the local people, especially the minority tribes that live in the area have adapted their lifestyles to make a buck off of us roundeyes. As we wandered around town that day, after we'd rested a while of course, we encountered throngs of hawkers selling almost everything imaginable. Eventually we were befriended by a group of 3 or 4 H'mong girls from one of the neighbouring villages. They were toting blankets, shirts, pillowcases and other trademark H'mong wares. Most of their things were beautiful and it was obvious that they worked hard at what they did because their faces portrayed an age much older than they actually were , and their fingers were stained with the indigo dye used to colour much of their fabric. These girls strolled through town with us and chatted in their broken english, referring to Dad as Budda Canada, and cracking other jokes. After a while we told them that we weren't interested in purchasing any of their things and retired into a pub for hydration. The girls weren't allowed in and they waited outside for a while before finally moving on. As we sat watching the world go by, it occured to us that maybe we did want to buy some of the local garb. I can't remember what the first purchase was, or who made it, but at that point our troop of girls were gone and we made the mistake of going out and flagging down another of the many H'mongs. Oops. Sure enough the original girls came back a short time later and no they weren't pleased that we'd bought from someone else. So anyway we ended up making some pity purchases from the original girls, but it didn't seem to fully reverse the damage we'd done, and our 'friendship' really wasn't the same after that.
Later that afternoon back at the guesthouse we met the people whose room was between our two rooms. They were a 50 something year old couple from Australia, there on vacation. They were friendly and we spent lots of time on the balcony with them, usually watching the construction that was taking place on a building only 20 or 30 feet below us. It was wildly entertaing to watch these guys working away in their sandals and button-up cotton shirts, and using tools like machetes to cut their boards. The afternoon was passed there at the base of Fan Xi Pan, and at night we headed out for dinner.
Now this day was Mother's Day and so we poked around town looking for a decent place to eat and settled in at a place called Gecko. The food was tasty and the wine was good, and of course the bill totalled about 30 bucks. It had been a long, but delicious day and we took it easy that night. I really enjoyed requiring a blanket while I slept.

Monday, October 29, 2007

Koh Tao

Well. I was most definately planning on writing a blog sooner than now. And there is much more to say than will be said here. Mainly because I can only spend so much time in an internet cafe, when looking out over a beautiful beach on a Thai island:)
Koh Tao is the name of the current island.
My journeys have taken me through 9 days in CAmbodia with Alex. We spend a week in Phnom Penh, having quite a party, and a blast needless to say. One day we decided to go looking for teaching opportunities, but the heat, exhaust, and amount of work it seemed to be to convince these people that we were seriously looking of rjobs (or was it convincing outselves that we were looking for jobs that needed convincing) led us to giving up quite quickly, and resorting back to our holiday mode. Teaching english should fall into your lap, and driving around in search of it, and communicating with people that themselves speak quite terrible english is not what I want to do on vacation.
After the week in PP, we went down to Sihanoukville for a couple days. Wonderful place. We went out to Bamboo island and found that the beach on the backside of the island is a paradise. super clear water and no people and lots of peace.
We then madeo ur way to Thailand. Alex and I ended up on different buses, but we were beside eachother the whole way because we had to catch ferry crossings. On the last ferry crossnig it started to pour, and our bus had been parked under the shelter, leaving us in therain. brilliant. The crew made the best of it, and it was just an experience that was easily overcome.
The border was easy, and I was on my way to Koh chang. When I turned aroudn to scope the bus. I saw Alex again. Somehow we managed to beo n the same bus. He eventually got off and caught his Bangkok bus. And I went to Koh Chang. Which is awesome. The second biggest island in Thailand. it's mountainous and wonderful. I spent 3 days here, one of which was spent snorkellng in some really nice coral areas. it was wonderful.
then i went to the zoo called Bangkok. It blew my mind. Mostly because it was way more ... developed thatn I expected. Comng from Saigon and PP, this place was a modern city. Highways and big skyscrapers and lots of people. Lots of cars. crazy.
i met up with Jesse Egger in his pimp apartment with his co worker Natasha. We hung out several nights seeing the sights of BKK. Met up with Alex and his friends, finally hanging with some Thai people. One day we went to a buddhist 'temple' (Chay-dee, the biggest one in the world).
The next day was Dave's arribval. And he did arrive, though his baggage didn't. I was waiting, and so was he. but luckily we were flying out of the same airport that evening, making it easy to pick up his bag. We were flying to Koh Samui, to catch a boat to Koh Phangan, to go to the Full Moon Festival. A massive beach party that has been famous for 20 years.
It was exciting and entertaining and enjoyable beyond belief. Dj's on the bech, and partying until the morning. The last few days havebeen spend recovering and enjoying the tropics on the beaches.
Now it's just Dave and I out to have a good time. We'll see what happens.
peace
Brandon.

Wednesday, October 10, 2007

Unhappy

Unhappy

My trip has started. A new adventure begins. So much to see.
Why then must it start off on the wrong foot?
After a glorious last weekend in Vung Tau, Adam and I took the 12:30 boat up to the city to meet Alex. The plan was to play a round of golf, then go to the Canadian Thanksgiving party and then see what happens. When we got in the cab, despite the language barrier, we thought we had translated the Saigon South Golf Course. Only one golf course can be called that right? As we found out later, our driver only knew a couple courses. So we ended up at the wrong one. The boy working knew a little english, and we thought we had then solved our problem. Well 20km later and realizing we were at a posh resort, we bailed on the plans and enjoyed this golf course with a beer from the fancy resaurant.
We then fandangled a free ride with some Taiwanese richies, and the van driver dropped us right at the front door of the Canadian Thanksgiving Party. This was quite a success, with great food, some prizes, and meeting up with a bunch of other young Canadian expats. We then went out on the town as expected. It was another wonderful night out. Until we walked home.
Adam and I went home around 4 I think. Not 50 steps from the hotel, one of the ubiquitous ‘taxi girls’ approached us. Even though she got the quick brush off, she followed. It always makes for a fun chance to joke in Vietnamese. So I did. Then we parted. What I didn’t realize, is that she had managed to distract me enough and reach into my pocket and take my phone. By the time we got to the hotel andI realized this, she was gone.
After a hectic hour of me raging around De Tham area, including talking to the ‘police’, who, as far as I am concerned, have no business being called such. Of course they were no help, and the more I think about it the more sure I am that it would be of no use in any country anyway.
So why did this have to happen? Things were spectacular. I had all my information for travelling, all the people I’ve met, a camera and my music for my entire trip tied up in that electronic piece. Is this one of those “you need to get back to yourself” moments. “What’s important is your life”. “It’s only a phone”. And yes, it is only a phone, except that it had all my music and a camera on it.
And so ends another stupid incident. I severely want to leave this country now.

The ‘not having a phone anymore’ thing became a major pain in the fact I was supposed to meet a girl for a date the next day. Using other peoples phones and waiting in the hopeful correct spot is just very confusing. When finally it came together, it was an enjoyable time. We met several of her friends at cafée, and when we were just about finished, a massive storm came. We waited it out for a bit, but we were getting pretty wet. We eventually decided to head to a restaurant for dinner, despite the rain. And it was a good idea. We ate at a fancy seafood restaurant somewhere in district 3 (I don’t really know what that means, but I’m learning). My body began to tire fram the night before. And so it was home time. Loan and her friend had to go study anyway (at 10 pm??? Until 1 or 2… what a crazy life). Whereas I went straight to my room, and straight to sleep.
And it was a great sleep… until 5 this morning when they cut the power, which left the worlds hottest room, even hotter because I was lacking the dual fan action. And so I am awake at 7 am in Saigon, craving to leave this place.

“If what I am is what I have, and what I have is gone, who am I?”
Peace.