Monday Off

My monday off was quite exciting. It may not have had the same importance to Adam, but the day was spent surfing. And for me it was my first time surfing. In life, there are always things you long to do. Surfing was one of those things for me. And in life, there are some things you like, and some things you don't. Until you try them you are never sure which it will be. Surfing turned out to be one of the things I like. I figured I would, but it's the realization that feels good. Sitting out in the water, on a floating board, waiting to see a nice wave coming at you, while the sun burns you skin. Beautiful. And the paddling for all your worth, trying to gain enough speed to stand up and coast down the face of the wave and get propelled into shore. Wonderful. Now of course when you are learning, it doesn't always happen like that. In fact it rarely happens like that. It often results in failed attempts. Some without even trying to stand up, others with you being tossed around in the fury of the wave. Any way though, it still is enjoyable. The water here is warm, there are no rocks to hit, and the waves are not very furious.
The cost of renting a board is a little much for my liking. I understand why, since there is not a big market amongst the Vietnamese for surfing, but the prospect of buying a board suits me much better. Hopefully soon we will be able to get some boards, and then surfing becomes unlimitlessly accessible. Except of course for the need for waves, which are not always present.
May the waves keep rolling.
Brandon.